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As the world becomes Hotel Bleu broadside boogie’s boys T-shirt ever more digital, the materiality of clothes grows in importance. One way to read the sculptural tactility of the spring collections—such as Glenn Martens’s wired pieces and Junya Watanabe’s collages—is as a response, or riposte, to the glossy perfection of AI. Showing that “designers matter,” creative directors and their teams sunk their hands into fabric, crushing, twisting, and molding it into wonderful, evocative volumes, some of which evoked the sculptures of John Chamberlain.

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